A study in Transportation

I know I mentioned in other blogs some of the unbelievable ways that "goods and services" are delivered in Haiti, but I will just mention a few and then when I get home, post some pictures. Even those don't truly do justice to transportation in Haiti.

I have seen:
Motorcycles- with 3 kids and a dad. Moms and babies riding with a driver. Packages hanging off both sides with accompanying passengers. Evidently, if one of these drivers should run into you because of their recklessness, it is still your fault and they expect all resulting injury to person or property to be paid for. They are a major threat on the road and a major source of accidents. (I've cleaned up a few casualties).

Tap Taps- these can be smaller trucks with raised toppers or beat up vans. They carry considerably more passengers than what is even remotely safe or comfortable, but it is the main means of transportation for most Haitians. Mothers, kids, babies, students, workers, etc. If they break down, (which is common) you just hop out and hail another one. They are entertaining in their colorful painting and sayings on them. They usually have some sort of religious reference such as "Jesus save us"or something like that. I have ridden in them a couple of times when either there was no other option or when our own truck broke down. It is not for the faint of heart believe me and there are so many people squished in that even if you stop quickly, you aren't going anywhere! Being tall and white is generally a curiosity for the kids who rarely see "blancs" out and about. Some of the little ones are afraid of me, but most will smile when I try to engage them.

School buses- there is a central area for school buses that load up each morning about 4:00am and go to Port au Prince and then return the same afternoon. It is about an 8 hour harrowing trip each way over the mountains on roads that are little more than dirt pathways filled with pot holes and erosion. Each bus is packed with people, and cargo, including on the top. It is cheaper to ride on the top with the large cargo, but honestly, I don't know how they keep from falling off!

Large Trucks- these are large like a dump truck but with open railings to hold in the cargo and people. They can be packed very high with people literally dangling off the top. Trips in from Dominican Republic can be packed in that way as there are more things to purchase in the DR for resale in Haiti

Vehicles- There are a few "cars" which act as taxi's, but most vehicles are either SUV's or pickup trucks. Other vehicles just can't hold up to the wear and tear. The big organizations will drive around in nice SUV's and are usually white for some reason. It seems rather impractical to me. And you will have a variety of other SUV or trucks which are personally owned by either missionaries or wealthier Haitians. Most missionaries will have drivers, at least at the beginning, because of the new realities of the road, but eventually some braver ones will venture on their own, at least in the rural areas.

Farm Vehicles- I have seen very few tractors here, but one in particular that we pass on a regular basis is pulling 7 very large carts, filled to the top with either straw or some such thing. How he negotiates the roads, I have no idea.

The Cart- The cart is an amazing thing to see. They are wooden about 12' long with an additional 4' of handle. The men who push these carts must be Herculean in strength because the cargo is always heavy and enormous! Occasionally, you will have a guy in the front, mostly just to direct, and then the guy in the back (usually a thin, wirery guy) is in the back pushing well over a ton under his own strength up and down hills and through potholes. It is absolutely amazing!

Bicycles- several people can ride one bike. They may sit on the bar in the front, or the handle bars or the back. I have seen 2yr olds riding on the front, Mom peddling and perhaps a 4 or 5 year old on the back. They drive along side the road, but are pushed off often as approaching vehicles honk to warn them to get out of the way. In the food chain of transportation, the bike is only superior to the walking pedestrian. (They are at the bottom of the food chain.) I have seen very young children on bikes not appropriate for their size, riding on main thoroughfares on their way to school. It is frightening to see. I am looking forward to taking Doug (my husband) to the bike repair area of town to see the incredible amount of used "pieces" that they have to repair and build bikes. As he used to be a competitive cyclist in his younger years, he may find this interesting.

It have contemplated as I have been here now for almost 5 weeks this trip, how normal some of these things have become compared to when I first arrived. It is just a reality to Haitians and a fact of life. There is definitely an art to walking in the city which most of us Americans are not used to. In the states, the pedestrian has the right of way (at least theoretically!) But not so in Haiti, you must constantly be vigilant and aware as you walk!
Even when I am out with Hanania, she is watching giving me instructions "OK cross, or No wait." I feel like I'm back getting instruction from my Grandma Eleanor when I was 5! But that's alright with me. In a new culture, you never learn if you don't embarrass yourself sometimes! And besides... there are plenty of verses in the bible about being like a child, right!!!!

World Cup Frenzy!

Many of you received the email I wrote about the "Football" hysteria here with the World Cup! Brazil remains the clear favorite and the city stops when they play! I even heard a marching band in the street a few days ago after their win.
For some reason I can not cut and paste the email into this format so the rest of you can understand the extent to which Haitians will go to show their dedication to the team, but maybe when I get back to the states and have a better internet connection, I can post it.

Suffice it to say, that the frenzy continues... the erruption of cheering is city wide.... and Brazilian flags are everywhere!

I emailed to my Brazilian friends this occurance and they were very pleased. Even as I write this, I can hear the buzz of radios, TV's and cheering/talking as the world cup is on. Rich, poor, and inbetween all are interested. In front of the house, every afternoon starting around 4:00 or so there is a soccer game played by the young men of the neighborhood. I watch quietly from the balcony sometimes as I don't want to disturb them. They are serious!!! The "field" is a dirt road about 18-20' wide with concrete fences on both sides. The ball will occasionally get kicked over the gate into the yard, but I just keep the gate unlocked so they can run in quick and get the ball. One time, it came way into the yard and I yelled to them that I would get it...which I did....but, I think it embarrassed them so now I keep a low profile, and just let them get it.

It is interesting to me to think about how alike Haitians are to Americans in some ways (love of sports for one thing) and yet how different too. It is a testimony to how we are all created in the image of God and when everything else is stripped away, we all need Him.

...it's the little things....

The electricity remains off, the solar is down to charging for about 15 minutes a day, the generator is also "broken", something about wires that are not properly connected. I knew I was going to have a challenging weekend on my own with no electric and only the ability to use the computer to communicate for a very short time. But... I woke up saturday morning thinking, "Oh good, I can maybe have a second cup of instant coffee this morning before I get started." So... I headed to the kitchen ..got the matches.. lit the match and turned on the gas. Nothing...tried again...nothing..no sputter, sputter, no flash, just nothing. So being the inquisitive one that I am, I checked the line into the stove (well, truthfully, I tentatively checked the line with out moving things too much, knowing there are a variety of creatures, furry and otherwise that make their home under the stove and I preferred not to disturb them). Not seeing a problem, I followed the line outside next to the house to see if someone had inadvertently shut off the valve...no, it was open. Evidently, MaLouie had used the last of the propane on friday and it had not been mentioned.
Then came the time of decision...do I call Hanania or Edrick for help...or do I just wait until Monday...I opted to wait. I wasn't going to starve eating cold food .....I'll just miss the coffee!

So here I was, no electric, no generator, minimal solar and now no propane to cook. I had hoped to get computer work done for work and be able to skype with the family or at least email, but it seemed as though these activities would be at a minimum. I guess the Lord is teaching me to be independent in lifestyle, dependent on Him and content in all circumstances!

Or maybe, He just wants me work more on my creole!

FYI: For those of you like me who REALLY LIKE COFFEE...I found an alternative....Instant coffee, powdered milk, sugar and cold water...stir vigorously! Not bad...really!

Busy Week!

My first full week in Cap Haitien was a busy one. At the clinic I was mostly in the pharmacy either working on writing the computer program or trying to inventory the medical stock. We visited the orphanage and also visited a Pastors facility where we may have teams stay when they come in to work on wells or other activities. FYI: It is beautiful and definitely would NOT be roughing it. Just a heads up to any of you who may wish to come down and help out!
I helped with the English class and worked on the health education program. The evenings were spent with visitors coming over and with working on creole. It was very hot and I was still adjusting to the rooster serenade at 4:00am. By the time friday got here, I was tired!
So....here I was squeezed in the back of the pickup with three other good sized Haitian ladies, purses and computers, the radio was blaring, another radio in the car was playing the world cup game, we were sitting in horrible traffic (again) with all the horns honking, people yelling... and I am dozing off! My head kept banging against the window. I am such a wimp! I am going to pray that the Lord will give me much more endurance!

June 9th-visit to Children of the Promise

Children of the Promise is an orphanage that was started by a couple who live in Wilmar, MN. I had visited there last year. It is out in a rural area essentially south of Cap Haitien. They have very nice facilities both for staff and for the children including class rooms, large kitchen, and a nice play area with swing set. They take in babies and children up to about 5 years old. Some of the children are orphans, but a good number have parents who for any number of reasons can not take care of them. Some of the children are eventually reunited with their families, others are put up for adoption. Each child has a Haitian "mommy" who cares for them. And then, volunteers come to assist and to work with special needs children. Before the earthquake they had approximately 50 children in their care. During the chaos that followed the earthquake, 40 of the children who were in the process of being adopted were allowed to leave and go to their adoptive families. Including one child who's parents rented a helicopter in Dominican Republic and flew in to get their child. (FYI: the well drillers were staying here during this time and assisted in guiding the helicopter down!) They are now back up to around 30 children. The very nice young couple who are directors, have received permission to take their adopted children out of the country (2 1/2, 2, 1 years old, and surprise, a baby to be born in October!)

I visited the facility again this trip because they had had a diesel spill and we are going to try to get a water sample analyzed in a lab in the states. Doug has worked out the lab, but the into and outof the country is still being worked on! We should have it together by July so Doug can go and check it out to be sure their well water is not contaminated.

If anyone is interested in volunteering to help here for a week or two or even longer, let me know and I will get you the information. It is very reasonable to stay there and the children are so wonderful! They also facilitate adoptions as well and it sounds like from what I have read that the Haitian government is allowing adoptions to proceed of children whose parent's either can sign the paperwork or can be verified as deceased.

If the Lord speaks to your heart, listen.....

Construction in Haiti

One of the very big differences between Haiti and the US is that in Haiti everything is paid for at the time of purchase... including houses. What this means in practical terms is that people must save money...buy land...save money...buy cement...save money...buy rebar...save money...hire workers (or do it yourself) etc. There are no mortgages here! But then again, once it is purchased, it is yours. A house is really an investment for people, it is something they actually own. People will put their life savings into their home, slowly building, adding on for additional family members, making it sturdier. This is why the earth quake has been so devastating for so many people... not only did they lose family members... they lost the only real thing of value that they owned and there is no insurance or FEMA for replacement. They must start completely over.

To build in Haiti, generally, you start completely from scratch. You buy a piece of land and have sand delivered to it (or do it yourself). You buy bags of cement, Each bag can make about 32- 35 good quality bricks, although some people make more which is one of the reasons why so many buildings crumbled in PAP. The sand is mixed with some cement and water and shoveled onto itself over and over to get the right consistency. Once it is correct, it is put in a form, patted down, smoothed over and carried to an open area. It is then dumped out and left for at least three days. The blocks are periodically "sprayed" with water and as they dry and the cement cures, they become hard. It is slow, difficult work!

After blocks are made you are ready to begin building. A good house will have a foundation which is dug in at least 3 feet into the ground and built up with rock and cement. The floor is poured and spread by hand and leveled. Then the courses of block are ready to begin. The blocks are tied together with rebar "columns" which are filled with concrete. You will see houses in MANY stages of completion in Haiti! People live in them as they are and when they have additional funds, they buy more cement! Some of the masons do beautiful work with arches and columns etc. but most are pretty basic. After the house has walls, you can begin a second floor using rebar as support or you can just tie in a roof. Since the earthquake, it seems like many people are opting for wood (or stick) rafters and Metal roofs. Less weight. Quite honestly, after seeing the pancaked houses in PAP, I think it is an excellent idea.

Hanania and her husband are building a nice home fairly close to where we will be living. It will house the three of them and 6 others. I would estimate it's square footage at about 1000. They need to move in the end of this month, but it will not have a well for water, or bathroom yet (they are building a latrine). It is just cement blocks at this point. Hopefully, it will have the roof (they are waiting on some funds to purchase some sheeting)! This is how it works in Haiti though, you do what you have to do to get by!

It has been interesting to me to talk to various people regarding the "build as you go" housing as opposed to the "mortgage" concept we use in the US. Everyone I talked to said they preferred the Haitian way...where they owned the house and land outright and did not have to worry about making payments or having it taken away. Maybe they are on to something!

Days in Cap Haitien

Life in Haiti is bizarre in some ways. It is busy, exhausting, long days and short nights. Yet you feel like for all the "work" that goes forward, there are two steps that go backward! It is like there is always something conspiring against you to not allow you to get done what needs to be done! It is challenging each day and yet at the end of it, it is difficult to really quantify the results or progress. It is more of an intangible sense of peace at the end of the day, knowing that you did your best inspite of the many obstacles; no electricity, car problems, traffic, no money at the bank, no diesel, inadequate supplies, very hot and muggy and of course, waiting ...for everything! You just have to laugh sometimes and say, "OK Lord, it's in your hands!"

Most of the time in Cap Haitien, I have spent working at the clinic. I was able to get an inventory program going and it seems to be functioning well. The staff is understanding how it works for the most part and since I will be back in July, I'll be able to assess how it is going. I've been working with the Nurse and the Doctor to get a sense of the challenges they face and to see if there are ways to help. Magarette showed me the technique for sterilizing the small equipment like scissors and clamps. It is like being back working with Florence Nightingale. First she washes the items with soap and water, then she wraps the utensils in a rag, begins water boiling and then puts the utensils in a steaming colander and allows the steam to heat and sterilize the items. Another technique is to put the utensils in a metal container, add rubbing alcohol and light it. I am sure this is better than nothing, but a far cry from having a true sterilizing oven. Unfortunately, as soon as the items are "sterile" they go back into dirty drawers or cabinets. Doing wound care is particularly interesting! There is certainly the attempt to remain sterile while doing the dressings, but usually it is a losing battle. I will say that Magarette is much more aware of the need to maintain a sterile environment than some other clinics I have seen because she used to work in an OR, but it is still very difficult. The Doctors use stethoscopes that can be bought for about $6.00 here, not professional ones. They sometimes have to be very creative to help patients as the resources are so limited. Patients will come to us when the hospital will not see them because they don't have money, but sometimes there is just nothing we can do.....

I've also been looking at the Health Education program and ways to make that more effective. I have met with the Association (the Board) and discussed ways to utilize the staff 's talent better and get information out into the community. In general, just did what needed to be done and tried to be helpful. I'm not going to discuss the things I've seen as it would gross you non medical people out! Let's just say, I've seen some "interesting" things!

On Wednesdays, when the clinic is not open, I have been going with Hanania and Edrick to get the many things done for Global H2Ope that need to be accomplished. Let me recount one of our days! A task I was to accomplish was to get information on the process to become an NGO in Haiti. So... Hanania called someone (she knows MANY PEOPLE) and set up an appointment for us at the Government office of Social Service. We arrived on time to the building, but the person we were to meet with was not there. So, we went back outside and waited for a while. Eventually, Hanania saw the person we were to meet with approach the building so we went back in. They let us in the barred gateway and up the stairs to some chairs. There were already quite a few other people waiting to discuss their problems or ideas. We sat for a few minutes. Of course I was the only "blanc" in the building so I got a number of stares. FYI: I have seen very few other foreigners except at the OMS mission compound and when the Missionary flights plane comes in to bring the mail. There are a few Italians managing a road construction project and the UN Chilean troops, but that's about it from what I can see! Anyway, eventually we went into a long room with 3 long tables. Each table had an employee on one side and then chairs lined up on the other where the person could state their problem, ask a question or whatever. There was a clear power differential between the government employee and the person coming to request something! Although, it seemed for me, they were more accommodating. I asked my questions, Hanania translated, the government worker answered and Hanania explained back to me what I didn't catch. I was hoping to have things laid out in a process, but alas, they do things one step at a time and you don't get to find out about step two until step one is completed. Thankfully, I know that Pastor Steve is going through the same thing but is a step a head in PAP so I have a slight advantage, but clearly, I can see that working with the government can be a frustrating process!

Following that meeting we went to see if Pastor Henoc Lucien was at his school. He is an EFCA endorsed Pastor and has a number of ministries through Vision of Hope. His school is large and very nice. They even have school buses to pick up the children. I was glad to be able to meet him as I had been by his facility outside of CAP near Milot last year, but he was not there when we passed by. He will be a good contact to have for the future.

Following this meeting, we drove out to where the house is that we will be renting when we move here in November. My first trip there, we could not get in (a long story which I won't go into) but this time the neighbor knocked on the gate and got the cook to come to the door.
It is a simple rectangular cement block home with 3 bedrooms and two bathrooms. It is currently owned by a career missionary in his mid 70's and lets just say, it could use some "updating and TLC"! The yard is large and has many fruit trees which will be wonderful! I got some pictures to show the family when I get home, but hopefully we can work on it when Doug and I are in Haiti in July! Even to just get the minimum done and then complete the rest once we move here. It is right next to the international school which is wonderful as the kids will be attending there. Since Doug is a teacher and I can help out, they are going to work with us on the tuition. They use the ABBEKA curriculum and it is a very small school of only about 20-25 children K-8. It will be a safe and nurturing environment for the kids. Living very near to us are a missionary couple with MFI Missionary Flights International. MFI is the lifeline for most missionaries in Cap Haitien and will even shop for you in Florida and send it over on their flights. They charge $1.50 a pound for cargo and bring mail into Haiti twice a week for those affiliated with them. I flew with them last year and we will probably do the same when the family comes and we will have cargo. They will even take the dog! Anyway, I think the area will be perfect for the family, the school will be great, and we will be close to other organizations and missions that have experience in the area. It seems like God is preparing the way for us!

This is a long blog!!! But hopefully you get a sense of the days and the intrigue of the culture. It is a remarkable place, with remarkable people!